ЖуркаМурка

Вперед в прошлое

Историко-археологические памятники, разнообразная природа,  небольшие расстояния и близкая по духу культура — всё это про Беларусь. В ХХI веке эта страна — одно из немногих мест, где все еще можно окунуться в прошлое и увидеть жизнь людей, которые смогли сохранить частичку древности и средневековья.  

73 км от Смоленска и вот вы уже пересекли российско-белорусскую границу и оказались в Могилевской области. Въезжая, сразу и не замечаешь, что что-то поменялось: вокруг всё те же густые леса и обширные поля. Но по мере движения вглубь начинаешь ощущать атмосферу старины и видеть следы прошлых веков. Город Мстиславль. Что хранит этот древний город и его окрестности и почему здесь царит дух прошлого?  

Отголосок легенд и отпечаток XIV века 

В полукилометре от границы с Россией находится Пустынский Свято-Успенский мужской монастырь, основанный около 1380 года. Заходя на огражденную территорию монастыря, сразу обращаешь внимание на плачевное, полуразрушенное состояние церкви и храма. Постоянные посетители монастыря из Беларуси говорят, что эти здания находятся на реставрации с 2003 года и по сей день внутри и снаружи ведутся восстановительные работы.  

Пустынский Свято-Успенский мужской монастырь

Удивительно, но при том, что церковь и храм ремонтируются уже более 18 лет, остальные сооружения на территории монастыря сохранены в хорошем виде и выглядят красиво и надежно. Белые купели, заасфальтированные дорожки, маленькие аккуратные дома монахов и трудников, расположенные поодаль от других объектов монастыря, создают тихую и светлую атмосферу места. 

«Почти у каждого дома есть свой земельный участок, который мы обычно засеиваем картофелем, огурцами, морковью, помидорами и другими овощами. Также на территории давно произрастают несколько яблонь и слив. Почти каждый год мы собираем хороший урожай и им и питаемся. Получается, в каком-то роде, натуральное хозяйство», — рассказывает один из послушников. 

Однако большинство паломников и верующих людей приезжают в Успенский монастырь не просто полюбоваться старинными православными постройками. Дело в том, что на территории есть святой источник, вода которого не только по легендам, но и по рассказам реальных людей обладает чудодейственной силой. Невероятным образом пропадают боли в голове и спине, вылечиваются вдруг серьезные болезни — все проблемы со здоровьем, так долго мучившие человека, исчезают. 

«Я верю в то, что вода отсюда помогла мне, — поделилась одна из паломниц. Это очень важное для меня место. Несколько лет назад я впервые поехала сюда. На тот момент у меня были серьезные проблемы со зрением: оно очень быстро падало, и видела я все хуже и хуже. Прогулявшись по территории монастыря и помолившись в церкви, я решила еще окунуться в купель да умыться водой. Не знаю, как назвать это, если не чудом. Спустя неделю врач сказал мне, что зрение больше не падает, но точных причин этому назвать не смог».  

В купели и в источнике вода оказалась очень холодной, но местным и туристам это вовсе не мешает. Окунувшись, каждый выходит счастливым, сияет от восторга и надеется на чудо. Жизнь течёт здесь размеренно и гармонично: люди следуют давно сложившимся традициям, заботятся о православных зданиях и постройках и просто верят в лучшее. 

Место современных рыцарей 

В центре Мстиславля есть еще одно уникальное историческое место — Замковая гора. Это археологический памятник, место откуда 9 веков назад берет свое начало Мстиславль. Он представляет собой открытую, просторную площадку, находящуюся на возвышенности и огороженную по периметру городнями (древние срубленные оборонительные конструкции). Внутри расположены несколько деревянных построек XV-XVI веков: возвышающаяся в небо восьмиугольная башня, многоярусные наблюдательные башни, двухъярусное здание с аркой, храм, колодец. Их раскопали в конце ХХ века и отреставрировали.

Сергей живет в доме у подножия Замковой Горы. Он переехал в Мстиславль из России 5 лет назад и заметил, что историко-археологический памятник популярен как среди туристов, так и местных жителей: 

— Летом проводят групповые экскурсии на Горе, но чаще, конечно, приезжие приходят сами посмотреть на это средневековое место. И я с друзьями и семьей хожу погулять туда: на свежем воздухе и большом пространстве можно провести хоть целый день. Как раз успеешь обойти всю местность и насладиться пейзажем вокруг. 

Пейзаж Замковой горы действительно завораживает. Стоя на возвышенности, можно увидеть почти весь город с его узкими улочками и широкими площадями, золотыми куполами православных церквей и серыми шпилями католических соборов, частными домами и жилыми постройками. 

Открытая площадка Замковой Горы

Но больше всего людей привлекает Замковая гора в конце июля-начале августа. В это время в Мстиславле проходит ежегодный фестиваль «Рыцарскi фэст». В городе возрождают атмосферу Средневековья: на главной площади располагают Город Мастеров, где местные ремесленники продают сувениры, изделия из дерева, украшения, по улицам верхом на лошадях разъезжают рыцари в настоящих доспехах XVII века, а Замковая гора становится самым захватывающим местом фестиваля. На открытой площадке воссоздают рыцарские сражения, в которых участвуют представители конно-исторических клубов со всей Беларуси. 

Анастасия приехала на фестиваль с мужем и детьми из Минска. Она отмечает, что каждый год «Рыцарскi фэст» уникален:  «Организаторы постоянно добавляют что-то новое и интересное в программу: то дегустацию еды и напитков, то фаер шоу. В этом году мы сами сделали костюм рыцаря сыну, и он тоже поучаствовал в соревновании по метанию. Это один из самых увлекательных и зрелищных исторических проектов в Беларуси».

Ежегодно тысячи людей приезжают в Мстиславль, чтобы почувствовать дух Средневековья и своими глазами увидеть штурм замка, оборону башни, сражение на мосту и рыцарские схватки.  

Тесная связь с прошлым, любовь к истории и культуре, почитание традиций предков и вера в чудеса — то, что делает маленький город особенным и позволяет шагнуть на тысячу лет назад.

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403 thoughts on “Вперед в прошлое

  1. Евгений Исаковский:

    Отличная статья! Теперь обязательно надо посетить эти места! Беларусь-топ!!! Спасибо за статью!)

  2. Александра Вологжанина:

    Статья просто супер! Было очень интересно читать, информация изложена доступна и теперь самой хочется посетить все эти места!!
    Спасибо автору на замечательную статью!!!!))

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