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Мнимая экологичность брендов и как на неё ведутся покупатели

Тенденция на экологичную одежду все больше становится популярной. Больше никто не хочет покупать футболку без лейбла с надписью «из переработанного материала». Особенно это поддерживают бренды массмаркета — Zara, H&M, Pull&Bear, чтобы не потерять «заботящихся об экологии» покупателей. Но что скрывается за мнимой экологичностью брендов? И как им удаётся нас всех обманывать?

Уже несколько лет H&M принимает вещи покупателей на переработку, а взамен клиент получает щедрый бонус — 10% скидки на покупку одежды. Приятно помочь экологии, сдать ненужную одежду и ещё получить скидку. В 2019 году партнёр H&M признался, что из-за большого количества сданных вещей в России, одежда не проходила пересортировку и распределения. По данным The Village, большую часть одежды отправляли на склад в город Лыткарино (а не в Германию) или продавали на авито за 25/30 рублей за килограмм. Отсюда и появляется термин Гринвошинг.

Контейнер для сбора одежды в H&M
Пакеты с ненужной одеждой

Гринвошинг

маркетинговый ход для предприятий, которые заявляют о том, что их продукция стала «зелёной» и экологичной, чтобы повысить спрос у покупателей. На самом деле, компания ничего не меняет и  продолжает разрушать своим производством окружающую среду.

Если вы думаете, что впервые столкнулись с этим термином, то ошибаетесь. Он прослеживается повсюду. Вы недавно купили бамбуковую щетку, чтобы не вредить экологии пластмассой? Увы, бамбуковая щётка быстрее изнашивается, чем пластмассовая. Значит, ее придётся раньше выкинуть — перепотребление!  Даже в бамбуковые щётки ставят нейлоновые пластины, а это пластмасса, поэтому это плохая альтернатива.

Вы протираете лицо ватными дисками от бренда косметики «Ясамая»,и увидели маркировку «БИО». Теперь можно спать спокойно – мои ватные диски не будут разлагаться миллионы лет, а частицы ваты не съедят в море черепашки. На самом деле подлинности у этого знака нет, а сам бренд никакой гарантии не даёт.

Все учатся на своих ошибках. Поэтому вот несколько советов как определить «настоящий» эко-товар.

«Экологические знаки качества». Есть несколько проверенных сертификатов, которые отвечают за безопасность продукции и экологичность производства. Видите их на упаковке – смело берите!

Fairtrade(«справедливая торговля») — сертификат обеспечивает этическими и социальными нормами фермеров и сокращает использование химикатов в продукции.

Blauer Engel («голубой ангел») — первый и старейший знак для маркировки безопасной продукции для окружающей среды. Даёт гарантию, что товар высококачественный и был сделан с помощью экологических разработок.

BIO EG-Öko-VO – немецкий знак качества встречается на продуктах питания и говорит о том, что продукция была сделана без усилителей вкуса, синтетических веществ и ароматизатора, или легче — без ГМО.

Эко-бренды. Они ориентируются на создании только экологичных вещей гардероба. От выращивания хлопка до поставки одежды в магазин – всё должно быть прозрачно и без вреда природе. Кроме этого, бренды должны иметь экологические знаки качества и подтверждать их спустя время. Только одежда тоже будет дороже, чем в Zara, но и качество будет выше.

NNedre — российский бренд одежды, который ориентируется на минималистичной одежде без излишеств и пластмассовых деталей. Коллекции бренда выходят раз в несколько месяцев. Здесь представлены только базовые вещи для постоянной носки. Остатки ткани превращаются в мешочки для одежды или распродаются.

Московский шоурум магазина
Одна из коллекций бренда

Rishi — питерский бренд, который специализируется на создании одежды из старых вещей с техникой «пэтчворка». Главный материал — деним, который медленно изнашивается. Новый материал для одежды не создаётся, потому что является вещью, которая уже была создана. При создании новой вещи – новая вещь кастомизируется и проходит апсайклинг.

Шоурум магазина в Санкт-Петербурге
Корсет из винтажного денима

Бренды устраивают гонки за прибылью и следованием тренда на «экологичность». Поэтому  покупателям нужно осознанно подходить к покупкам одежды и товаров быта. Также внимательно рассматривать знаки качества, чтобы определить их оригинальность.

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215 thoughts on “Мнимая экологичность брендов и как на неё ведутся покупатели

  1. Алиса Пригожина:

    Никогда не слышала о термине «Гринвошинг». Узнала много нового, спасибо автору!

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